The replica Rolex Explorer II Steve McQueen is a copy of vintage reference 1655, the fixed-bezel 24-hour watch Rolex produced from 1971 to 1985. The details that define it are the orange arrow 24-hour hand, the steel bezel with engraved 2 to 24 numerals, and the matte black dial with painted markers. Replicas of this reference sit in two tiers: low-cost builds with generic automatic or quartz movements, and higher-tier builds that copy the case profile, dial printing, and hand shapes with more care.
What is the Explorer II Steve McQueen reference 1655?
Reference 1655 was the first Explorer II, launched in 1971 for cave explorers who needed to tell day from night underground. It paired a 40 mm steel case with a screw-down crown, a domed plexiglass crystal, and a fourth hand that circled the dial once every 24 hours. The bezel is fixed and engraved 2 to 24, so the hand reads against it as a day and night indicator.
Collectors call it the Freccione, Italian for big arrow, after the oversized orange hand. Production ran to roughly 1985 across several dial variants, from Mark I through Mark V.
Why is it called the Steve McQueen?
The nickname comes from a loose association with actor Steve McQueen, who was known for rugged sports watches. No photograph, interview, or auction record documents him wearing a 1655. The name stuck anyway, and dealers still use it because buyers search for it.
What do replica versions get right?
Better builds capture the silhouette that makes the 1655 recognizable at arm's length. The main wins:
- Case width near 40 mm with drilled lug holes and the correct lug taper.
- Orange 24-hour hand with a printed arrow and lume fill.
- Matte black dial with painted hour markers instead of applied metal surrounds.
- Fixed steel bezel with engraved numerals, not printed ones.
- Domed crystal with slight distortion at the rim.
Where do replica Explorer II watches fall short?
Dial printing is the most common failure, with fonts that are too thick, too glossy, or spaced wrong. The orange hand often reads as flat red-orange in daylight rather than the deeper tone of aged lume. Case finishing gives replicas away too: genuine 1655 lugs have soft, hand-finished bevels, while copies show sharp machined edges.
Movement is the other gap. A 24-hour hand that sets on its own requires a GMT gear train, and many budget replicas use a slaved hand or a decorative fourth hand.
How do you test the 24-hour hand?
Pull the crown to the time-setting position and turn it. On a working GMT movement the 24-hour hand advances with the hour hand at half speed. If the fourth hand never separates from the hour hand, the build is cosmetic only.
What should you inspect before buying?
- Dial: compare the coronet shape and the size of the text lines against reference photos.
- Bezel: engraving should be cut, not printed, with even depth across all numerals.
- Hands: check that lume plots are centered and the orange tone is consistent.
- Case: look for even brushing on the lugs and a crown that sits flush.
- Movement: ask for the caliber, the beat rate (21,600 or 28,800 vph), and whether the GMT hand sets on its own.
Is a replica Explorer II legal to buy?
In the United States, selling a watch that carries a registered Rolex trademark is trademark infringement, and US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit shipments. Buying one for personal use carries less direct risk, but the item remains an infringing copy with no warranty, no service support, and no resale value. Treat any replica as a novelty, not an investment.
Frequently asked questions
How much does a replica Explorer II 1655 cost?
Budget builds run from about 60 to 150 US dollars, while higher-tier automatic versions with a working GMT hand sit near 250 to 600 US dollars. Price does not guarantee accuracy, so compare dial and bezel photos before paying.
Does the replica use real tritium lume?
No. Replicas use modern luminous compounds, so the markers glow instead of going dark like original 1970s tritium. That glow is one of the easiest tells next to a genuine watch.
What size is the Explorer II 1655?
The case measures about 40 mm across, 47 mm lug to lug, and roughly 13 mm thick. It wears smaller than the modern 42 mm Explorer II and suits wrists from about 6.5 inches up.