What a replica Patek Philippe chronograph is
A replica Patek Philippe chronograph is a watch made outside Patek Philippe that copies the look of a Patek chronograph reference. The copies track three models most: the Nautilus 5980/1A, the Nautilus 5990/1A, and the Aquanaut 5968A. Production sits in China, with Guangzhou as the main hub. A small number of sellers assemble parts in other countries.
These are counterfeit goods under US law. They are not homage watches. An homage carries a similar shape and no brand name. A replica carries the Patek Philippe name, logo, and reference number.
Reference numbers and their specs
- Nautilus 5980/1A: 40.5 mm steel case, automatic chronograph. One subdial at 6 o'clock holds both the running seconds and the 60 minute chronograph counter.
- Nautilus 5990/1A: 40.5 mm steel case, flyback chronograph with a second time zone.
- Aquanaut 5968A: 42.2 mm steel case, chronograph with orange accents on the dial and strap.
Patek rates the 5980 to 120 m of water resistance. Case thickness on the 5980 is 12.2 mm.
Movements inside the copies
The real movement is the CH 28-520, a column wheel design with a vertical clutch. No copy uses it. Most copies run an Asian 7750, a clone of the ETA Valjoux 7750. It beats at 28,800 vph and carries 25 jewels. A module shifts the subdials to the 6 and 12 positions. The added parts make the case 1 mm to 2 mm thicker than the original.
A second tier uses movements built for one case shape. Cost rises. Parts still do not interchange with Patek parts.
Where copies differ from the original
- Dial print: font weight on the date wheel, spacing of the brand name, width of the subdial rings.
- Hands: bevel and polish on the hour and minute hands.
- Bracelet: taper, link edges, and the fit of the clasp.
- Caseback: engraving depth and the finish of the movement ring.
- Crystal: anti reflective coating on copies is weaker.
Both real and copied cases use 316L stainless steel. The steel grade is not the tell. The finishing is.
Timekeeping and water resistance
Patek adjusts the CH 28-520 to a range of -3 to +2 seconds per day. Copies leave the factory at +10 to +30 seconds per day in most samples. A watchmaker can adjust a 7750 based movement. Few will work on a counterfeit.
Water resistance claims on listings run to 50 m or 100 m. Gaskets and case threads are the weak points. A pressure test at 30 m is the realistic limit, and many copies fail it.
Price tiers
- Quartz copies: $80 to $150. The sweeping hand is fake. Chronograph subdials may not move.
- Asian 7750 copies: $250 to $500. Working chronograph, thicker case.
- Upper tier: $500 to $1,200. Cloned movement, better dial print, closer case profile.
Genuine 5980/1A watches trade on the secondary market above $100,000. That gap drives the copy market.
Legal status in the United States
18 U.S.C. 2320 makes trafficking in counterfeit goods a federal crime. A first offense by an individual carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine. US Customs and Border Protection can seize and destroy counterfeit shipments. Watch brands file civil suits under the Lanham Act and collect damages.
Buying one copy for personal use is not a federal crime in itself. Importing it is barred, and the package can be seized. Selling, trading, or shipping copies is the line that carries criminal exposure.
What the search term covers
Searches for "replica patek philppe chronograph" and the corrected spelling lead to the same three references. A listing that shows a Patek logo is a counterfeit good. A listing that shows no logo is an homage watch with a different legal status.