The short answer
A replica Patek Philippe Aviator Travel Time 5390 is a niche build, not a mass-market one. Most Chinese factories chase Nautilus and Aquanaut because those sell in volume, so the aviator and travel-time line gets fewer releases and thinner quality control. That means two things for you: the pool of good examples is small, and the name on the listing often tells you less than the photos do.
If you want a functional second time zone, a legible vintage-style dial, and a case that wears close to the original proportions, expect to pay more than a standard submariner clone and to spend real time comparing seller photos.
Why the 5390 name is confusing
The reference gets used loosely in the replica market. Vintage Patek aviator watches from the 1930s and the modern Pilot Travel Time family are different animals, and sellers sometimes blend the naming. Auction houses have sold genuine early aviator pieces for sums that put them far out of reach, which is exactly why the rep trade borrows the name.
Before you compare anything, decide which watch you actually want. A 1930s-style aviator with a rotating bezel and painted numerals is a very different build from a modern pilot watch with a 24-hour hand.
What the better tiers get right
- Case proportions. Diameter and lug shape are the first giveaway. Look for a case that isn't over-polished and doesn't have fat, rounded lugs.
- Dial printing. Vintage-style fonts are hard to fake cleanly. Check for blurry text, uneven lume plots, and hands that don't match the dial's age cues.
- Crystal. Domed sapphire or acrylic with the right curve matters more here than on a dive watch.
- Strap. Most reps ship with a stiff leather strap that ruins the look. Budget for a replacement from day one.
The travel time function
This is where reps fall apart most often. A real travel-time movement lets you set a second time zone independently. Cheaper replicas fake it with a decorative 24-hour hand that either doesn't move or is slaved to the main hour hand.
Ask the seller directly: does the GMT hand set independently, and does it track a full 24 hours? If the answer is vague, assume it doesn't. A working dual-time function usually means a modified automatic or a hand-wound movement, and that pushes the price up.
Checks before you buy
- Request a video, not stills. Watch the seconds hand sweep and the GMT hand move.
- Ask for a caseback photo to see the movement and any engraving.
- Confirm thickness. Replicas often run a millimeter or two thicker than the original.
- Check the date wheel if the model has one. Misaligned or low-quality printing is common.
- Ask about water resistance honestly. Assume none unless the seller states a tested figure.
What to pay, and what to avoid
Low-tier examples of this reference are usually not worth owning. The dial work is coarse and the complications are cosmetic. Mid-tier builds are the sweet spot if the movement is genuinely functional. Anything marketed as top tier should come with detailed macros and a clear movement description.
Red flags: stock photos from the brand's own catalog, no movement info, prices far below the rest of the market, and sellers who won't answer function questions in writing.
Bottom line
This is a connoisseur's replica, not a starter one. Buy the seller before the watch, confirm the travel-time hand works, and accept that a strap swap and a service are part of the cost. If you want something simpler and better supported, a Nautilus-style rep will treat you better. If you want the aviator look, take your time.